Tramesha Cruse didn’t take long to settle on Lila Mae’s Southern Kitchen and Lounge as the name of her new restaurant.
It’s a tribute to her great grandmother, who raised Cruse’s mother and taught the family how to cook much of the delicious Southern fare found on the menu.
“She meant a whole bunch to a whole lot of us,†said Cruse, who grew up in Tennessee. “She actually delivered me.â€
Cruse and her partner, Travis Russell, opened Lila Mae’s at 2110 Winthrop Road in June, where Stur 22 used to be. Cruse worked at Stur 22 for four years before realizing her dream to run her own restaurant. She originally planned to start a food truck, but took over the Rathbone Village site instead when it became available after Stur 22 left to focus on its downtown operation.
“I love this location,†Cruse said. “The community over here has been super supportive.â€
People are also reading…
Cruse opened Lila Mae’s with a limited menu but plans to expand her offerings within the next month once she secures her liquor license. She then will add brunch on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Currently, Lila Mae’s is open for dinner only from 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.
Lila Mae’s hangs its hat on Southern fare, with Nashville hot chicken ($13.95) as its signature dish. It’s breaded, dipped into a hot sauce and fried. It’s then served atop a slice of white or wheat bread or a maple syrup-covered waffle. The waffle, of course, is the way to go.
Patrons can choose the hot chicken’s “heat levelâ€: extra mild, mild, medium, hot, extra hot, hot or — for 50 cents more — “melt your face off.â€
Food
In addition to hot chicken, Lila Mae’s small menu boasts Southern favorites such as pork chops, served “nekkid†($15.95) or “smothered†($16.95); fried whiting ($13.95); and shrimp and cheesy grits ($16.95). Most entrees are served with a choice of two sides, which include such soul food standards as collard greens, fried okra and cole slaw.
My wife, Rebecca, enjoyed a “hot†hot chicken on a waffle with fried okra and greens served in styrofoam cups. The chicken is breast meat, (most likely) pounded flat and lightly breaded. The hot sauce is hot. My bald head generated beads of sweat from just one bite. Her greens included white onion slices and bacon pieces. The okra was breaded and fried.
I, too, enjoyed my entree, the fried whiting. Two hefty, lightly breaded and seasoned pieces of fish were served atop a slice of wheat bread. I went with fried okra and a sweet-tasting homemade macaroni and cheese. Both of our entrees were served with dill pickle slices.
We finished our meal sharing a slice of moist Kentucky butter cake ($7), served with a mix of fresh and frozen fruits. Other dessert choices were apple crisp and peach cobbler.
We thoroughly enjoyed our meals. We’re anxious to see how Cruse expands her menu when she begins serving brunch. Grade: A
Atmosphere
Lila Mae’s is one of my favorite dining rooms in Lincoln, having found its appealing look when it was Henry’s on South. It’s a small room, with seating for around 50 or so, on two levels. The bar is located on the upper level at the back of the room and can’t be seen from the lower level because of a dividing wall. The lower level features a mix of booths and attractive two-tone hardwood tables, which are in great shape. Music playing was a mix of Motown and soul, creating a perfect vibe. Grade: A
Service
My wife adored our server, Cruse’s teenage daughter, Tavia, who was a bundle of energy as she combined hosting and serving duties. She was uber-friendly and quick to recommend her mother’s hot chicken served atop a waffle. Our food took a little while to come out of the kitchen. That’s because it’s just Cruse and Russell in the kitchen and each entree is prepared as ordered. So be patient. Also be patient if Tavia is working the floor by herself. On our visit, she had help arrive just as the dinner rush was picking up to aid in delivering food and busing tables. Grade: B
Specialty diets
Veggie options include one entree (okra stew, $11.95), spring salad ($9.99) and several appetizers (fried cauliflower, okra and/or pickles, $5.95 each). Side items, which range from $3 to $6, include crinkle or waffle fries, fried okra, macaroni and cheese, cheesy grits, greens, steamed veggies, pasta salad, cole slaw and fruit salad. The menu doesn’t designate gluten-free items, so check with the kitchen. Grade: C+