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Of course, Fierro could be blowing smoke, but I believe him.

He now has a visible storefront that is easier to access — there are no more stairs to climb to enjoy some of the best vegetarian food in Lincoln.

Fierro, who opened the renamed Pepe’s Bistro (he dropped “veggie mix� from the title) at the beginning of February, said he’s seen several new faces to go along with his loyal customers who followed him over to his new location.

He changed the name because he wants newcomers to try his enchiladas, burritos and more without any preconceived ideas about vegetarian food. He still has customers ask for meat entrees, but once he explains his concept — using fresh ingredients, many of which are locally sourced — these meat eaters often give it a try.

And they often leave satisfied.

Things are going so well for Fierro that he’s considering opening a sweets shop in an adjoining space.

After trying his desserts for the first time, that would be a wise move.

He has a sweet potato pecan cheesecake ($4) on his April menu that is a must-try. The crust is made from dates and coconut. The vegan dessert, which also is gluten-free, is finished with a sweet agave nectar.

Fierro also has an apple pie ($4) that’s worth checking out, too. He caramelizes Pink Lady apples in rum and agave nectar then mixes them with dunlop cheddar cheese from Davey Road Ranch in Raymond and places them between two wheat tortillas. He serves the pie with a Kahlua whipped cream.

When Fierro first opened Pepe’s nearly five years ago, I called it a Lincoln treasure. Nothing has changed. Except the location.

Food

The new Pepe’s, like the old one, features a small menu, which Fierro changes regularly. For April, he has five entrees available — including one vegan dish (sweet potato quesadillas for $8) — to go along with an appetizer, soup and choice of desserts.

I’ve never been disappointed with a meal at Pepe’s.

This time I enjoyed Fierro’s black bean spinach enchilada plate ($9), served with cilantro lime rice and fresh greens and apples. In addition to black beans and spinach, the two corn tortillas were filled with caramelized onions, white cheddar cheese and red peppers. The kickers were the tomatillo sauce and feta cheese atop the dish to add even more flavor.

My wife ordered her favorite Mexican dish, the chile relleno. Unlike what is done in most Mexican restaurants, Fierro doesn’t bread and fry his peppers. He bakes them instead after stuffing them with Swiss chard, caramelized onions, black beans, egg, herbs, spices and cheddar, mozzarella and feta cheeses. Again, the key is using multiple cheeses instead of just cheddar to add to the flavor palette. The dish, too, was served with rice and greens.

We started our meal with homemade chips and salsa. We splurged and ordered it with guacamole ($7), to which Fierro adds cherry tomatoes and fresh greens. Grade: A

Atmosphere

As regulars know, Fierro is a bicycle enthusiast. He’s been known even to discount food for old bikes given to him. That’s why his restaurant has a bicycle theme, from the menu holders made from gears to the art on the walls made from other bike parts. Fierro’s friends created much of the artwork for him and many of the pieces are for sale.

As for the space, it seats 36. Fierro plans to set up tables and chairs outside when the weather becomes agreeable for outdoor dining. The dining room chairs are mismatched and, combined with the bicycle theme, help to give Pepe’s some character. Grade: B+

Service

On previous visits to Fierro’s Havelock restaurant, I ordered and paid at the cash register and had food delivered to my table. This time, Pepe’s had table service, a polite young man who was well schooled on the restaurant’s small menu. He checked on us several times and brought out our appetizer, main entrees and desserts in timely fashion. Grade: A

Vegetarian friendly

Very, especially since the menu is entirely vegetarian. Pepe’s also extremely friendly to vegans and gluten-free diners. How much so? Our server asked us before ordering if we had any dietary issues. That never has happened in my 15 years of writing about restaurants. Never. Grade: A