The expressions on readers’ faces were, well, funny when I told them my next review would be at a grocery store.
Several Lincoln groceries feature delis, buffets and/or to-go counters featuring pizza, Chinese and more. And some even have seating.
But the Hy-Vee at 5020 N. 27th has taken grocery-store food service to the next level, offering a full-service restaurant for breakfast, lunch and dinner inside the store.
Hy-Vee opened it first Market Cafe in Overland Park, Kansas, in February 2013. Since then several more have popped up in Hy-Vee territories, including three in Nebraska: Plattsmouth, Omaha and now Lincoln.
The Lincoln location celebrated its grand opening May 5. The Market Cafe is part of an extensive remodel, which also included a new Starbucks, cheese shop, sushi bar and bakery artisan oven, and an expanded HealthMarket and Butcher Shop.
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The cafe is set off from the grocery store with giant glass doors. Inside … well, it looks like a typical restaurant -- actually better than a lot of restaurants in town -- with a large dining room, which includes padded booths along the walls, a bar and several high-definition TVs tuned to sports.
If I didn’t know better, I would have guessed I was in a sports bar rather than a grocery store cafe.
Even the menu is sports barlike, with an emphasis on burgers, sandwiches and appetizers. There are five entrees, which include a 12-ounce ribeye for $23, the most expensive menu item, and a grilled salmon ($15).
Food
Not many Lincoln restaurants serve a Monte Cristo sandwich, so I was happy to see one on the menu. The Market Cafe’s Monte Cristo club is a double-stacked sandwich with turkey, ham, bacon, Parmesan mayonnaise, pepper jack cheese, lettuce and tomatoes on toasted egg-dipped sourdough bread and served with a spiced apple jam.
The flavor here comes from the house-smoked turkey, thick-sliced, and the jam. The sandwich is big enough to serve two, easily, and that's why it cost $11. Many of the burgers and sandwiches are large and the cafe may want to consider a half-sandwich option at a cheaper price. My wife took most of her sandwich home.
She ordered a Thai peanut chicken sandwich ($10), which featured a marinated chicken breast topped with a peanut sauce, Asian slaw, sesame dressing and chopped peanuts. As you can imagine, it had a strong peanut flavor.
The burger/sandwich section is the largest on the menu. Other offerings include a Reuben, pulled pork, a breaded pork tenderloin and a burger topped with white cheddar macaroni and cheese. Grade: B+
Atmosphere
The restaurant has a warm contemporary feel to it, with blacks and browns as dominant colors. We found it comfortable, not loud and extremely clean. I’m not big on TVs in restaurants, but if you’re going for a sports-bar feel, then they are appropriate. Grade: A
Service
Only one quibble here: The menu says if you substitute a Caesar or house salad for fries, tortilla chips or coleslaw on a burger or sandwich order, it’ll cost you $2 extra. There was no such note about the “Signature Sides.†I figured it may cost extra and I was correct. I was charged $1 for my gourmet macaroni and cheese.
Other than that, our experience was top-notch. Our server, Karissa, was quick to recommend menu items and explained to my wife the differences between the Asian Chicken Salad and the Thai Peanut Chicken Sandwich (basically, it’s the bun). We enjoyed being able to complement our meals with a beer or a glass of wine.
We did note, however, a bottle of James Arthur Edelweiss cost $32. We’re pretty sure it’s probably at least $10 or more cheaper in the store. Grade: B+
Specialty diets
The Market Cafe’s menu includes an “Under 600 calories†section, which features eight items with calorie counts. They range from a “light†dinner salad ($3) to a “light†grilled salmon ($14).
Among the vegetarian options is a porto-veggie sandwich ($9), a grilled, marinated portobello mushroom topped with sauteed red peppers (grilled), zucchini, carrots, onions, yellow squash and spinach. Patrons also can create their own flatbreads ($7.50) or go with the tomato mozz flatbread ($8) with sliced Roma tomatoes, mozzarella pearls, house Italian seasoning and fresh basil.
Gluten-free buns and pasta are available upon request. Grade: B